Old Delhi, New Delhi

Experiencing Old Delhi is like being washed away in a churning river. It's wonderful and vibrant and terrifying all at once.

This morning we took an auto rickshaw to the Red Fort in Old Delhi. This is magnificent, although parts are somewhat crumbling. The 2km of red walls on the outside make it look vast. I was expecting it to be big, but was amazed at the scale of it. In terms of size at least it makes the Tower of London look tiny and primative.

Inside there is a market where Delhi's best craftmen used to sell their wares from (now it is souvenir shops) and then further in a magnificent complex of gracious marble buildings. Commissioned by Shah Jahan, the fort was completed in 1638. Running through all the buildings and the grounds there used to be channels of running water, which kept the buildings cool and the grounds beautiful. It would have been magnificent in its days of glory. And the water provided early air conditioning. Clever.

From the cool and stately grounds of the Red Fort we stepped into chaos. Old Delhi's Chandri Chowk completely blew me away. The crowds, the desperate attempts to get you to take a cycle Rickshaw (which can include folowing you down the street), the beggars, urchins (the little boys grab your bottom!), smells, crazy power lines, falling-down buildings and seething aliveness of the whole place were incredible to be part of.

We visted a mosque, and had to put on hilarious all-over floral garments. It's the biggest mosque in India according to the guide book and much in the architectural stye of the red fort. We just couldn't go up the tower because women had to be accompanied by a man.

There was also a temple that I think was Siek with many in the congregation in turbans with ritual daggers. We went in during a service and the sonorous chanting of the priest was magical.

For further religious diversity we also visited St Stephens, a 19tC church with a Spanish flavour.

For those who come to Delhi, I have a recommendation - use the metro. Compared to the twisted streets of Old Delhi it's fast, efficiet and immaculately clean. A smiling poster with an Indian girl guide on it informed us that it's celebrating its 10th anniversary. The metro took us to New Delhi to visit the National Museum and what a contrast! Wide strrets lined with beautifully kepy parks and space to breathe!

I was very interested by the Harappan exhibit, complete with famous dancing girl sculpture - seen by many as the high point of Harappan art. Most magnificent is the gallery of miniature paintings. A completely different way of using the artform to European painters.it's more about line with colours intricate and decorative.

Very tired tonight and we will be up at 4am to make sure we get an early morning train to Agra.